Scenic seaside Bar Harbor is the gateway to Maine’s Acadia National Park, one of the 10 most popular national parks throughout the United States. The Pine Tree State’s abundance of breathtaking scenery and stellar dining options satisfies all the senses—on and off the water.

Top Acadia Sights

It’s worth the early start and extra layers to watch the sunrise at the summit of Cadillac Mountain, elevation 1,530 feet, the highest point on the Eastern Seaboard. The effort will be rewarded with stunning views of the glaciated coastal and island landscape, overlooking Frenchman Bay out toward the Schoodic Peninsula and beyond. Allow a good half-hour for the drive up the mountain. From May through October, both a national park pass and a car reservation are required; the latter can be booked on recreation.gov.

The 27-mile Park Loop Road accesses the park’s top attractions, including Otter Cliff. The 110-foot-high granite precipice is a popular scenic overlook for photos. Nearby, Sand Beach is noted for its (chilly) aquamarine waters and stunning views, as well as for ranger-led stargazing programs. In between these two attractions on the 2.2-mile Ocean Path Trail is Thunder Hole, where the churning waters one to two hours before high tide create a deafening roar and wave sprays as high as 40 feet.

Read More: Cruising to Historic Portland, Maine

Sieur de Monts is referred to as the “heart of Acadia.” Its nature center has exhibits on the science behind the park’s scenery. Its Wild Gardens of Acadia include more than 400 plant species native to the park. Its short hiking trails range from steep Schiff Path, which connects to the summit of Dorr Mountain, to the leisurely Jesup Path boardwalk favored by birdwatchers on the lookout for the park’s 20-plus warbler species.

Dining

Bar Harbor’s dining scene satisfies at any time of day. After the sunrise atop Cadillac Mountain, refuel with breakfast at Café This Way, known for its blueberry pancakes and corned beef hash. Partake in a park tradition by booking afternoon tea at Acadia’s Jordan Pond House. Enjoy the delicious popovers, first served in 1893, while looking out over the luxuriant lawn along Jordan Pond. Mount Desert Island Ice Cream is considered a requisite stop in Bar Harbor. Order a flight to sample several of the creative, ever-changing flavors, which range from Maine Sweet Cream to Bay of Figs to Salt Wildflower Honey.

A lobster meal is mandatory in Maine. The Travelin’ Lobster, a casual outdoor venue, is worth the wait for its lobster bisque, lobster bake and flavorful, generously sized lobster rolls. (Save room for blueberry pie.) The Reading Room Restaurant serves up a refined seafood repast along with spectacular harbor views and live piano music. And don’t miss Havana for its award-winning wine list, craft cocktails and inventive Latin-inspired fare.  

The post Top Bar Harbor Maine Sights For Visiting Cruisers appeared first on Yachting.

Few harbors showcase as salty a New England scene as Nantucket’s does during the annual Race Week festivities. This year’s celebration is scheduled to take place August 14-18, with regattas, events and parties for sailors of all ages. Powerboaters get a free show, with colorful sails and some seriously competitive skippers filling the water views.

On shore, Nantucket is a favorite destination all summer long too. The local culture and tourism department has maps for self-guided walking tours, birding enthusiasts, and pocket parks where cruisers can get off the boat to enjoy a snack or read for a bit. During the summer months, there are two guided walking tours daily, each of them with about 60 minutes’ worth of island and whaling history included.

Straight Wharf is a great place for a stroll through the shops, with the Nantucket Peddler offering island-themed T-shirts, sweatshirts, sweatpants and jackets for wearing the whole rest of the year. Straight Wharf Restaurant has dinner seating as well as spots in the bar, where the finger foods include house-spiced olives and smoked bluefish pate.

Another memorable stop is the Egan Maritime Shipwreck & Lifesaving Museum, which is expected to have two new exhibits this summer. The Monaghan Gallery will showcase the US Coast Guard and its Nantucket missions of rescue, environmental protection and maritime law enforcement, while the recently renovated boathouse will host the exhibit Risk, Rescue & Recognition: Nantucket’s Heroes of the Sea. During July and August, this museum also offers outdoor activities for the whole family.

For boaters who prefer to visit Nantucket in the autumn months, after all the summer tourists are gone, September and October offer an unusual sight: the flooding of the Milestone Cranberry Bog for harvesting. This is the largest bog in North America, and it turns red during this time of year. On Columbus Day, there’s an Annual Cranberry Festival.

Boat Basin

Renovated cottages at the Nantucket Boat Basin reopened in April, giving visiting boaters a place to kick back and relax on land if they need time ashore. The marina has high-season rates from June 20 through September 8, with boats smaller than 60 feet paying as much as $11.50 per foot and yachts larger than 125 feet paying up to $16.50 per foot. Services include bicycle rentals, help with taxis, restaurant reservations and daysail bookings. Check-in is at 1 p.m., and the Boat Basin monitors VHF channels 9 and 11. The fuel dock sells gas and diesel, and has pump-out services. Pump-out can also be done slipside during certain hours.

Whaling Museum

This popular attraction is less than a half-mile walk from the Nantucket Boat Basin. Four centuries of history are documented in the museum’s nine galleries, which contain more than a thousand works of art and artifacts. Cranberry pickers is one notable recent acquisition by Eastman Johnson, the primary artist of national importance associated with Nantucket in the late 19th century. Kids activities include a historic properties scavenger hunt, along with activity books about locally inspired topics such as scrimshaw and whale ships. The museum shop sells apparel, house and home items, and art objects including Nantucket lightship baskets. 

The post Cruising into Adventure: Discover Nantucket appeared first on Yachting.

We’d slipped through the drawbridge at the entrance to Simpson Bay Lagoon on the southern shore of St. Maarten at the 1030 opening late last March, bound for the island of Dominica, some 170 nautical miles more or less due south. My old sailing buddy Hank Schmitt’s well-found Swan 48, Avocation, was headed for the second annual Yachting Festival in support of PAYS (Portsmouth Association for Yacht Security), a recently formed group dedicated to serving cruising sailors calling in the island. It sounded like a cool event, but what I was really savoring were the overnight sails to and from in the steady easterly trade winds. It had been a while since I’d spent a night at sea.

The derivation of the word “posh” is supposedly from British passengers who booked tickets for steamships bound for India. They were happy to pay a premium price for staterooms on the shady side of the vessel, which meant to port on the way over and to starboard on the way home (POSH: port out, starboard home). But the word also described our passage down the trades, a port tack (wind coming from the port side) heading south, and a starboard tack on the return trip to St. Maarten.

We were closehauled on the voyage south, and it was a bumpy ride, but there were some definite highlights. Off St. Barths, we caught a glimpse of the fleet of superyachts competing in the annual St. Barths Bucket regatta. At sunrise, we enjoyed a respite from the relentless easterlies, sluicing down the lee of Guadeloupe. The last 17 miles were sporty, but Dominica was straight ahead, the light at the end of the tunnel. Exactly 26 hours after passing through the bridge, we picked up a mooring in the coastal town of Portsmouth on Dominica’s northwest coastline.

It was a good, hard sail. The one back to St. Maarten a week later was even better.

As it was a relatively short passage, Hank did not set up a watch schedule, and I took the opportunity after our departure to hit a bunk for a few hours. I wanted to get the full night-sailing experience. And man, did I ever.

Read More from Herb McCormick: Reflections on Offshore Sailing

I popped up on deck at exactly midnight and was greeted by something I really didn’t expect: the Southern Cross, sitting pretty above our transom. Who knew it was visible in this part of the Caribbean? The moon had not yet risen, and the sky was brilliant, a virtual planetarium full of stars, including many a shooting one. It was mesmerizing. The rising of the three-quarter moon dimmed the light show a bit but was also magnificent.

We had to point a bit higher to skirt the windward side of Montserrat, but the wind had freed a little, and once around that volcanic isle, we were able to crack off a few degrees onto a powerful reach. I’d grabbed the wheel and was in no hurry to let go. The sailing was as good as it gets. The gusty trades fluctuated between 15 and 22 knots, the absolute sweet spot for a thoroughbred like Avocation. The boat was locked in at 8.5 knots of boatspeed, with the occasional burst over 9 and even 10 knots. We were definitely hauling the mail.

There’s never a better place to catch a sunrise than on the ocean, and with St. Kitts on the horizon, it was a pretty great one. We shaved a couple of hours off the trip on its return leg, and precisely 24 hours after departing Dominica, we dropped the anchor off Simpson Bay to await the next bridge opening, with plenty of time for a refreshing swim.

I’ll always recall with fondness the lush island of Dominica, but what I’ll really remember is sailing through those Caribbean nights.  

The post Unforgettable Caribbean Voyage: Sailing Through St. Maarten and Dominica appeared first on Yachting.

Most years, new launches depart from shipyards bound for the Mediterranean in time for the summer charter season—with savvy clients strategizing to be among the first parties welcomed aboard. The pandemic caused a blip in that pattern, making new launches a lot harder to book for a couple of years, but quite a few charter companies are now advertising 2023 and 2024 builds with itineraries available in the most popular cruising grounds all along the West and East Mediterranean.

As you can see in the images on the opposite page, these new builds come in all kinds of styles, from eco-friendly power catamarans to motoryachts with sole-to-ceiling glazing. Some are among just a handful of newer models out cruising anywhere on the world’s waters, for private or charter use.

The Benetti Alluria, for instance, was one of just eight Motopanfilo 37M hulls when it launched last year. Amenities include a full-beam master stateroom, a foredeck pool and sun pads, and an Axopar Brabus 900 chase boat for looking sharp when heading into port.

The Sunseeker 86 Mowana is also a notable newer build, with a top speed of 28 knots and a cruising speed of 19 knots for making the runs easy between waypoints. Guest areas are forward and aft, letting charter clients avoid prying eyes no matter how the yacht is situated in an anchorage. Inside, one of the four staterooms has a bunk-style Pullman along with twin berths, creating an enclave for the kids.

Yet another interesting new offering is Catallaxy, a Sunreef 60 Eco sailing yacht. It has a full-beam bow terrace in addition to a guest area on the flybridge and an outdoor relaxation area aft.

Of course, destinations in the Mediterranean are classics, but visiting them in the comfort of a brand-new yacht only enhances the charter experience.

The Adriatic Sea

• Croatia has become a full-on popular summer charter destination, with its coastline full of villages, cities and islands to explore. An increasing number of charter yachts offer itineraries here each year.
• Vrbnik is in the north, while Split and Dubrovnik are popular destinations farther to the south.
• Dubrovnik is especially popular with fans of the HBO series Game of Thrones, which filmed many of its episodes in and around the city.

The post New Mediterranean Charter Options appeared first on Yachting.

For a satisfying sampler of New England summer fun, cruise over to Block Island. A short jaunt from Montauk, New York, and Newport, Rhode Island, this charming isle offers 17 miles of beaches, 28 miles of trails, fascinating history, solid marinas, great restaurants and a laid-back atmosphere.

Beaches

With 17 miles of beaches, Block Island has an expanse of sand for every type of traveler. Crescent Beach stretches for 3 miles along the island’s eastern shore. Mansion Beach at the island’s northern tip is quieter, better for beachcombing. Fred Benson Town Beach, at the island’s center, is beloved by families for its wide beach, shallow surf, extensive facilities, concession stand and summertime movies. A quarter-mile away is Scotch Beach, a “see and be seen” spot for teens and 20-somethings. For the party scene, head to Ballard’s Beach for tiki bars and live music.

Outdoor Activities

The Nature Conservancy once named Block Island one of 12 “last great places” in the Western Hemisphere because of its abundance of rare plants and animals, and the community’s dedication to conservation. The Block Island Conservancy offers free nature walks and programs during the summer.

It’s easy to explore the island’s natural wonders by hiking or biking along 28 miles of trails. The Mohegan Bluffs are a must-see, standing 200 feet high along a 3-mile stretch of the shore. It’s worth the 141 steps down to the beach to view the bluffs from the waterline. Birders flock to the island’s north end for the 127-acre Block Island National Wildlife Refuge, which hosts more than 70 migratory species in the fall. You can launch your kayak or paddleboard from your berth in one of the three marinas in the Great Salt Pond (West Harbor) to search for crabs and other creatures. Or book a fishing charter to angle for striped bass, for which the Block Island Sound is so well known.

History

A national historic landmark, the Southeast Lighthouse has been a beacon for ships from atop the Mohegan Bluffs since 1873. Its museum chronicles the history of New England’s highest lighthouse, including the time in 1993 when the bluff’s erosion forced a $2 million relocation of the lighthouse. In New Shoreham, the Block Island Historical Society showcases stone tools from the indigenous Manissean community, along with maritime and colonial memorabilia, and photos of island life during the Victorian era.

Dining

A Block Island institution, Poor People’s Pub serves casual fare as well as creative specials, such as duck pasta and saltimbocca pizza. Dead Eye Dick’s is known for its lobster and swordfish, which it also sells through its seafood market, Dick’s Fish & Provisions. Head to Block Island Oyster Bar and Grill for its namesake dish, harvested daily. Aldo’s Bakery provides boat delivery for its delicious coffee, pastries and light fare.

The post Cruising Block Island appeared first on Yachting.

It was a breezy fall afternoon on Chesapeake Bay, a perfect day for a sail, and I felt fortunate to have been invited out for a spin on Gary Jobson’s C.W. Hood 32, Whirlwind. Jobson—an America’s Cup winner and a member of the National Sailing Hall of Fame—keeps his boat on a hoist near his backyard in Annapolis, Maryland. As the director of Cruising World magazine’s Boat of the Year contest, I was in town for the annual Annapolis Sailboat Show and a week of boat tests. I’ve spent a lot of time on the bay in recent years and have come to know and appreciate it.

My Annapolis pals, however, never fail to remind me that their waterfront city has been called “the sailing capital of the United States.” Which, not coincidentally, is the exact same moniker that’s been applied to my very own hometown of Newport, Rhode Island. As we raised Whirlwind’s sails, I pondered the question of which town deserved the title. Only one can wear the crown, right?

Both cities began their existence in the 17th century, largely as shipping ports. The US Naval Academy is located in Annapolis, while the Navy’s North Atlantic fleet called Newport home for several decades, and the naval base remains a major local fixture. Historically, you could make the argument either way, so we’ll call that a toss-up.

Geographically, when it comes to the adjacent waters, I have a strong bias toward Newport. The Chesapeake features some excellent nearby cruising grounds, particularly along the Eastern Shore. But for me, it doesn’t match up to the neighboring Elizabeth Islands of Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket, with Maine just an overnight sail away. The Chesapeake is shallow and really doesn’t hold a candle to Narragansett Bay and the deep blue Atlantic lapping Newport’s shores. Advantage: Newport.

One thing you don’t get in Newport, however, is the abundance of rivers and creeks that you have in Annapolis to moor a boat, so many of them right along the waterfront. And there are certainly far more options when it comes to marinas and facilities. The nod goes to Annapolis here.

As a destination in and of itself, thanks to that deep water, Newport attracts huge numbers of amazing yachts, from modest cruisers to multimillion-dollar superyachts. The America’s Cup was contested there, and the town remains home to many of the classic old 12 Meters. But Annapolis is every bit as attractive as a tourist spot, and the sailboat show each fall is easily the country’s best. Flip a coin on this one.

As far as actual sailing, the southwesterly sea breeze that fills in off Newport nearly every summer day is steady, wonderful, and hard to beat. There’s plenty of sailboat racing; the New York Yacht Club’s Newport station is an amazing, iconic landmark, and there are plenty of dedicated sailors. But I have to admit, the Annapolis Yacht Club, rebuilt after a devastating fire, is every bit as dynamic as the NYYC. I don’t have hard numbers at my disposal, but my overall take on participation leans toward Annapolis. I see plenty of moored boats in Newport that never seem to go anywhere. The weekly yacht racing out of Annapolis blows Newport away on that front.

So where, exactly, does that leave us? As Jobson and I doused the sails on Whirlwind after a cracking great sail, my fondness for Annapolis was sealed. Sure, for its homegrown passion, let’s call it the sailing capital. But I think that we can still dub Newport the nation’s yachting capital, with the grandness that title suggests. And yes, I’m waffling. What’s that saying about having your cake and eating it too?  

The post And The US Sailing Capital Is? appeared first on Yachting.

Cruisers heading to the Bahamas often bypass the Berry Islands en route to the Abacos or Exumas. But this group of around 30 islands—anchored by Great Harbour Cay—provides a quiet stopover to clear customs, cast a line, and catch some sun on sugar-fine beaches.

Great Harbour Cay 

This is the largest of the Berry Islands. It was a popular vacation spot in the late 1960s for the Rat Pack, Cary Grant and other A-list celebrities. The island’s glam resort and golf course have since closed, allowing for a decidedly quieter vibe.

The cay’s well-protected namesake hurricane hole marina, a port of entry, is a convenient base for cruisers. It has 65 slips and can accommodate yachts up to 150 feet.

Nearly 5 miles of uninterrupted picturesque beaches stretch along the cay’s east coast. Toward the northern end, Sugar Beach often ranks as one the prettiest beaches in the Bahamas. Its caves entice visitors to explore when the tide is right, often eliciting comparisons to European beaches. Near the airport along Great Harbour Beach, The Beach Club is a popular midday stop for lunch and a drink. At the southern tip of the island, the wide, shallow Shark Creek Beach attracts shell collectors and nature lovers. In addition to its toothy namesake residents, the beach and its mangroves are home to myriad juvenile fish, eagle rays, baby sea turtles and spoonbills.

Chub Cay

The Berry Islands is known as “the fishbowl of the Bahamas,” and Chub Cay (at the far southern tip of the Berry Islands) in particular is considered the country’s billfish capital. Catch a charter out of Chub Cay Marina to try your luck in The Pocket. The well-developed marina, a port of entry, offers slips ranging from 40 to 160 feet and day passes that provide cruisers access to all its facilities. Stock up on provisions at the Marlin Market. Take a dip in the infinity pool or at the resort’s beach. The Clubhouse Restaurant & Bar is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner (reservations recommended for dinner). Its menu features a mix of Bahamian and continental fare, including grilled lobster tail, conch chowder and guava crème brûlée.

Other Cays 

From Great Harbour Cay, adventure-seekers can sail south to Hoffmann’s Cay to leap off the 20-foot cliff into the cay’s 600-foot-wide blue hole, the largest in the Berry Islands.

Continue south to Little Harbour Cay, which anchors the middle of the Berry Islands and is known for Flo’s Conch Bar. The pink restaurant, with the words “You Welcome” in large white letters on the roof, has welcomed such celebrities as Sylvester Stallone, Shakira and Brad Pitt since opening its doors in 1993. Call in your order three hours in advance to guarantee your share of the famous conch fritters and rum punch.  

The post Cruising The Berry Islands appeared first on Yachting.

Hurricane Ian was a monster when it struck Southwest Florida in September 2022: Category 5, winds up to 162 mph and damage that topped $100 billion.

The good news for boaters is that the waterways are once again clear, with marinas and services coming back online for transient cruisers. Some spots are fully reopened, while others are partially back in business. Overall, Southwest Florida is eager to welcome yachtsmen once again.

“Our docks are open and available,” says Brandon Skinner, marina manager at Sanibel Marina, which takes transients up to 80 feet in length overall. He says that the ship’s store and the restaurant, Gramma Dot’s, are expected to reopen by the time this issue publishes. “Their kitchen is larger now. The menu is going to stay pretty similar. Everybody loved it, so it’s going to come back.”

Over on Captiva Island, John Wankel, assistant dockmaster at the Tween Waters Island Resort & Spa, says that some of the local marinas have services such as shore power but are still working on restoring others. Tween Waters, which takes transients up to 100 feet, is fully operational. “We have everything on-site, including all the restaurants, back up and running,” he says. “The rest of the island is starting to come back together too.”

Anyone looking to bareboat can contact Southwest Florida Yachts on the mainland in Cape Coral, where operations are resuming this spring. “Thanks to the support, thoughts and prayers from our cruising family, we have been able to rebuild our company,” co-owner Barb Hanson announced. “We will be adding to our fleet as we proceed.”     

The Recovery

• Damage from Hurricane Ian was extensive. Florida’s governor recently issued an update to help people understand the scope of recovery efforts.
• National Guardsmen numbering 5,000 strong were brought in for search and recovery.
• Utility linemen were involved at a level of 43,000 individuals from 30 states.
• Cubic yards of wet debris removed numbered 931,000.
• Zero-interest emergency loans totaling more than $37 million have been awarded to more than 900 small businesses.
• Habitat restoration is underway for more than 200 acres of damaged mangrove forest in Collier County, as well as nearby oyster habitats and wetlands.
• Beach erosion is being repaired, with more than $14.6 million awarded to property owners along the shoreline.

The post Sanibel Rising appeared first on Yachting.

As the jumping-off point from the Florida mainland to the Keys, Key Largo is a fabulous introduction to what lies farther down the Overseas Highway. Its clear blue waters, abundant marine life and great dining options make the island a welcoming port of call for all.

John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park

The country’s first undersea park, covering a sprawling 70 nautical square miles within the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary, is a prime destination for all sorts of water fun. Paddle through the mangroves on a rented kayak, canoe or paddleboard. Chill out at Far Beach or Cannon Beach. Cast a line for mutton snapper and grouper. The park’s reef—part of the third-largest reef system in the world—is its top draw, with more than 80 species of coral and more than 260 species of tropical fish, including barracuda, parrotfish and damselfish. There are nearly 20 PADI dive facilities on Key Largo that offer trips to some of the park’s most popular sites, such as Molasses and North Dry Rocks. Non-divers can try a glass-bottom boat ride.

Florida Keys Wild Bird Rehabilitation Center

Since 1991, this nonprofit has been dedicated to the rescue, rehabilitation and release of injured native and migratory birds. Its Mission Wild Bird Hospital has a small shop and visitor-education center. The Laura Quinn Wild Bird Sanctuary serves as a home for more than 60 non-releasable birds representing almost 30 species, from raptors to songbirds to shorebirds. Try to time your visit for the daily brown-pelican feedings.

Harriette’s

At this restaurant, always start with dessert. Opened in 1982, this favorite local breakfast and lunch spot is famous for its enormous muffins. Key lime is the top seller among the 26 flavors, which range from bacon maple to German chocolate to guava cream cheese. The restaurant’s biscuits, omelets and eggs Benedict also earn frequent praise.

Check out more Island Icons: Saint-Martin and St. Maarten and Curaçao

Jimmy Johnson’s Big Chill

Pick your vibe at this waterfront sports and tiki bar from legendary Dallas Cowboys coach Jimmy Johnson. Hang out inside to catch the big games of the day on the multitude of TVs. Or grab a table on the deck for Florida Bay and sunset views, and nightly live music. Menu selections include New York-style pizza, pub grub and seafood.

The Fish House Restaurant & Seafood Market

A fantastic seafood meal is a must while in the Keys. Since the 1980s, The Fish House has been a landmark dining destination in the Upper Keys for its fresh and delicious seafood, generous portions and swift service. Daily catches are offered in five preparations, including the Matecumbe style spotlighted by Food Network stars Bobby Flay and Guy Fieri. If you can’t make up your mind on an entree, opt for one of the combination platters.

The post Cruising to Key Largo appeared first on Yachting.

After a fortnight underway and with 500 rugged nautical miles in our wake, in late June, our Cal 40, Dancing Bear, nudged up to the dock in the little British Columbian burg of Daajing Giids, formerly known as Queen Charlotte City. I tossed our dock lines to a helpful young man named Max, who’d scrambled over from his little cruising sailboat to help us tie up. On the pier, Max was boiling up a potful of crab. He even had some butter, garlic and saffron sauteing alongside. The aroma was mesmerizing.

We’d just completed a winding cruise from Anacortes, Washington, through the remote archipelago of Haida Gwaii (the former Queen Charlotte Islands), the last week of which was in true wilderness, where we’d shared the protected cruising grounds and nature preserve with whales, eagles, bears, sea otters, Sitka deer, elk, racoons and assorted other creatures, none of whom were humans. In fact, we hadn’t encountered a single other soul the entire week. Daajing Giids, the one-time queen of this region, has a population of around a mere 1,000 folks, but it somehow seemed more frantic than Manhattan. I was scheduled to fly out of the nearby airfield in Skidegate the next afternoon, so I would basically be in “the queen” for a day.

During my years of cruising and racing sailboats offshore, I’ve wrapped up many a voyage in countless exotic ports of call, but I’m not sure any were quite as fetching as funky Daajing Giids. It had me from the get-go. Moments after docking, a huge roar emanated from up the hill, where the crowd at a kids baseball game apparently had much to cheer about. I’ve been in Boston’s Fenway Park for a Red Sox game with less-enthusiastic fans.

Haida Gwaii is an overnight hop from the British Columbia coastline, just far enough to deter many cruising boats from visiting, as most opt to continue up the Inside Passage to Alaska. But it’s definitely worth the effort. And the half-dozen yachts in the anchorage were surely a salty mix, consisting of a handful of expedition-style metal boats and a ketch-rigged Amel Super Maramu flying a French flag.

Read More from Herb McCormick: Silent Running

Likewise, in the little yacht basin, there was a mix of well-used fishing craft and an equal number of well-traveled cruising boats, including a couple of full-keeled Bristol Channel Cutters and even a replica of French solo sailor Bernard Moitessier’s famous Joshua. Plenty of folks were living aboard.

Over in the nearby shallows, a tidal grid had been erected so boats could come alongside and complete a quick bottom job on the deep ebb. It had been quite a while since I’d seen one of those. And, I have to say, the fresh salmon and black cod fillets at the little waterfront pub were perhaps the tastiest I’d ever had.

Fortuitously, we’d arrived the day before the national celebration of Canada Day on July 1, and it was a pleasure to be in such a friendly place. As we were walking up the dock, a passing mariner asked how I was doing. “Great,” I said. “I mean, I’m in one of the greatest countries in the world.”

“I agree,” he replied. “And we’re privileged to have you guys as our neighbor.” Heavens, if only the entire world were so pleasant and agreeable.

The next day, I hopped a ferry over to Skidegate and caught my hourlong flight to Vancouver, then my connection home. As we lifted off and wheeled overhead, I got one final glimpse of the old Queen City. It had been a quick visit but a splendid place to wrap up an adventure. I hope to make it back sometime.

The post Cruising Haida Gwaii appeared first on Yachting.